Ice Hockey Skates

Skating is the fundamental skill involved in hockey. It stands to reason, then, that hockey skates are one of the two most important pieces of equipment for a hockey player (helmets being the other). So skate selection is extremely important. Most hockey skates (CCM, Bauer, Graf) are sized 1 1/2 sizes SMALLER than the shoe size. A full-grown adult with a size 10 foot would typically wear a size 8 1/2 hockey skate. A youth with a size 10 shoe would wear a size 9 skate - this allows 1/2 size for growth. Once a skate is selected with this sizing in mind, the player should put on the skate, unlaced, stand up, and kick straight down on the toe. This causes the foot to slide fully forward in the skate. With the foot in this position, there should be room for one (adult) finger between the heel and the heel of the skate. At a maximum, there should be room for two fingers. But no more than that. Note: Many people think that they can buy an oversized hockey skate and make up the difference with an extra pair of socks - THIS WILL NOT WORK.

Stay with me here. Now, kick back on the heel and lace up the skate. It is important to lace the skate tightly in the tow and ankle areas. The middle eyelets should be snug but not too tight. DO NOT WRAP LACES AROUND THE SKATE TO TAKE UP EXTRA LENGTH! This fights the engineering of the skate and affects the flex, With the skate on and tied, the toes should just brush the toe cap.

Repeat the procedure for the other skate. Walk around the shop, if possible, taking care not to step on any rough or hard surfaces. The skates should feel comfortable but somewhat stiff. If they hurt, or if your heel is floating (moving up and down) TRY ON ANOTHER PAIR.

Width: the proper width skate is key. If you need a EE skate, buy a EE skate. Cramming your EE foot into a D skate will only lead to a lot of pain and regret down the road. Also, don't buy a pair of EE's if you are a D. They may feel comfortable in the shop but you will be giving up edge control (and probably be gaining a few blisters).

The steel: the proper name for hockey skate blades are "runners". The runners are where the player makes contact with the ice. So, they too are critical. Make sure your runners are stainless steel. If not, you don't want the skates. The other, cheaper runners are typically steel plated. Take it from someone who has sharpened thousands of skates: plated skate runners are junk. As soon as they are sharpened, the plating starts to come off. It is then impossible to get a good edge, and then they rust. And rust has a much higher drag factor (resistance to sliding) than smooth steel. So make sure you get stainless runners.

The boot: Let's face it. Leather skates are on the way out. Most of today's skates are made in China. They are made from composite materials. Composites are typically lighter than leather. But they can break down faster. You should buy a boot which is stiff enough to last, but not too stiff for your skating ability. Your sales rep should be able to help you select the right boot. If not, RUN and find a competent salesperson in a real skate shop.